Prohibited by the Faro Civil Government in 1892, the Bioko, black hood that was covering the Algarve from head to toe, was reinvented by Lourdes Silva, who expects to play again used.
“The goal is to recreate the last pieces combining the design. Parts with identity, history, and tradition”, told Lusa the entrepreneur, which launched earlier this year a new line of biocos for winter and summer, now filled with color .
The Costume Museum of São Brás de Alportel has a replica that the director of the Museum, Emanuel Sancho, showed Lusa while recalled the controversy that led to the prohibition of biocos in the region. “It is one of the Algarve’s most characteristic,” he said, adding that although some connect to ask the Arab influence, biocos were widely used throughout Europe until the nineteenth century.
The fashion was dictating the disuse of the part of Europe and his stay in the Algarve was eventually regarded by “modernists of the time” as a sign of underdevelopment of the region, explained Emanuel Sancho.
The Bioko also not left benefited from reports that it was used for smuggling and theft to prostitution and even by men who wanted to deride people leaving unpunished because they are not identified.
Its ban gave him notoriety and raised controversy between those who defended and criticized, and, as the black of Bioko disappeared Algarvian streets with attentive police action, poets, journalists, writers and many more transferred the black of Bioko for pages of newspapers.
Emanuel Sancho noted that the Algarve Maria Veleda, “noted feminist”, wrote an article in 1901 “defending Bioko in the name of women’s freedom.” “This is surprising and requires us to understand the mentality of that time,” he added, noting that while the Bioko was used women were free to leave at any time without company and when it was banned now have to leave always accompanied.
The director of the museum said that there are still people who remember seeing women to use the Bioko in Olhão between 1920 and 1930.
Lurdes Silva insists that those who buy a Bioko know that he is more than a piece of clothing – is a piece with history and tradition. “All the pieces tell the story in Portuguese and English, or in the ceiling or on the outside, as is the case for summer play,” said the businesswoman.
The pieces have sparked interest and orders both in the model “Bioko Mystery”, the summer version (cotton) and the winter version (wool) as the model “Bioko Passion” with three layers and which also has a version half gangue station.
“Tradition must be something much more dynamic, so that the museum has collaborated with this Bioco Tradition project makes us very proud to see the Bioko chart new modernity paths,” said Emanuel Sancho, who heads the Museum the Trajo de São Brás de Alportel, whose inventory exceeds 15 000 pieces from the late eighteenth century.
Orders come through the brand’s website and their facebook páginade or events in which biocos are presented in public, but Lourdes Silva hopes to soon be able to disclose some places where pieces, fully made in Portugal, will be on sale.
Written by, LUSA